WPC Floor Installation Steps

STARTING THE INSTALLATION:

STARTING THE ANGLE TAP INSTALLATION：

Work from multiple cartons and “dry lay” several ro：ws before beginning to install insuring duplicate planks are not installed beside each other.
Measure the room to ensure that the last row will not be smaller than ½ the width of the product. If so, rip the first row to accommodate the last row.
Begin the first row working right to left. Insert minimum 1/4” spacers around the perimeter of the room allowing for proper expansion space. See figure 1. The tongue should be facing the wall. Insert the next plank to the left and connect the short joint (figure 2) at an angle, ensure a complete connection between the two.
Insert the second row by sliding the long joint tongue into the groove of the plank in the first row. Press down until it clicks into the adjacent plank (figure 4). Be certain to allow a minimum of 8” between end joints on the adjacent plank. The shortest starting or ending plank should not be less than 8 ” in length.
Using a scrap piece of plank, align it to the left side of the second plank and lightly tap the scrap piece with a rubber mallet towards the first plank (figure 3). Do not tap the face or locking mechanism of the product with the rubber mallet without using a scrap piece.
Install the remaining rows in the same manner (figure 5).
Use cut pieces from a previous row as the starter board to reduce waste being certain it is at least 8”in length.

INSTALLING THE FINAL ROW:

The last row may have to be cut (ripped) to properly fit the remaining width from the adjacent plank to the wall spacer. If necessary, complete the tight fit by tapping the board into place with a pull bar.
Place the last row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed planks. Use a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the contour of the wall. Mark it for a correct fit and cut.
After the boards are cut, position the planks and tighten the fit by using the pull bar.
If the last row is under a counter not allowing an angle click of the long joint, shave off the bottom of the groove and apply wood glue, then slip the tongue into the adjacent plank (figure 6).Wipe clean excess adhesive.

INSTALLING UNDER A DOOR JAMB:

Installation under moldings (such as door jambs) may require that the tip lip of the groove on the end be reduced in size.
Using a small plane or knife, carefully shave off the ledge of the groove (figure 6).
After the groove ledge has been trimmed, place the board in place and tighten with a pull bar to test for fit. The installer must be certain the require expansion of 1/4” has been maintained and the flooring is not pinched or tight. If the fit is not correct, re-trim as necessary.
Place a bead of wood glue on the bottom lip of the groove.
Insert the tongue into the groove and tighten the fit with a pull bar. Hold the board in place with painters tape (3M Scotch-Blue ™ 2080 Tape) until the glue is dry. Do not use masking tape or duct tape as they may damage the floor’s finish.

INSTALLING MOLDINGS:

Xinfulai recommends using Cap-A-Treads for installation on steps. Cap-A-Treads and Cap-A-Risers can be purchase from your dealer for Xinfulai WPC.
All molding should be dry fit prior to flooring installation to ensure proper fit, finish, and match.
Flush mount stair nose can be used to avoid tripping hazard. Follow the following instructions for flush mount stair nose installation.

Moldings should always be dry fit prior to installing the floor to ensure floor/molding match.
To accept the new flush mount stair nose the front of the step must be squared off by cutting the extended bull nose off, even with the riser, or by using a spacer to bring the riser out to cover the rounded front of the existing step.
Once the step has prepped, cut the new stair nose to length and position tight against the riser. Remove the tongue of the adjacent piece of flooring where it will touch the stair nose.
Dry fit the pieces and measure the area covered by flooring to ensure the last piece will be no less than ½ the width of the product. If not, you can tip the piece adjacent to the stair nose to accommodate.
After dry fitting the nosing and planks to judge proper fit and finish, install the molding using high quality construction adhesive.
After installing the molding, install the adjacent piece of floor using high quality construction adhesive. It is important that you only glue the piece adjacent to the stair nose and that you leave proper expansion space around all other fixed vertical obstructions, other than the stair nose. If the flooring touching the molding requires more than one piece, be sure that both all adjacent pieces are well adhered and properly locked together prior to the adhesive curing.

AFTER INSTALLATION:

Furniture should be moved onto the newly installed floor using an appliance hand truck over hardboard runways.
Avoid excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
Indoor temperatures should always stay between 23° and 85° F.
Oil or petroleum-based products can result in surface staining. Do not track asphalt-driveway sealer or other oil based products on to the flooring. Use protected walk-off mats that are non-staining. Rubber may discolor the floor.
Furniture should be equipped with felt pads to avoid scratching the floor. Heavy furniture and appliances should be equipped with non-staining large surface floor protectors. Furniture with wheeled castors should only have wide castors no less than 4”in diameter. Office areas must have a protective mat under chairs. DO NOT use ball-type castors.
Use walk-off mats at entrances to prevent dirt and grit from being tracked on to the floor.
Sweep or vacuum the floor regularly to remove loose dirt. DO NOT use vacuums that use a beater bar or turn beater bar off.
Damp mop as needed using clean water and a diluted neutral-PH floor cleaner. DO NOT use detergents, abrasive cleaners or “mop and shine ” products. Use caution as with all smooth surface floors may become slippery when wet. Allow time for floor to dry after cleaning.

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